My hotel, where I spent my first night in China in 2002, faces west so that the sun rises behind it and I was soon fascinated by the lighting effects it projected on the Northern Star Times Tower (centre).

- A photographic diary

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The community of An Hui Li includes most of the area where I usually spend my time on my annual visits to Beijing. This visit was extra special as it marked my return to the Tibetan Medicinal Bathing Hotel where I spent my first night in China in 2002. As I wandered around Anhuili I felt a new self-confidence in the community the year after the Olympic Games. They had no need to try to impress a foreigner because their society, whatever its flaws, had staged a world class event that was more than equal to any such event held anywhere. There was nothing to apologise for now - what country does not have widespread pollution and social inequality? What other country is advancing faster and therefore more likely to overcome these problems in time?

As for me, I got smiles and nods of recognition as I wandered around my old haunts on my seventh visit. My camera encountered no resistance when pointed at the natives.It seemed totally appropriate that the 60th Anniversary of the People's Republic should fall on the year after the triumph of the Beijing Games to again unite the country in a collective celebration.

For me, this was a return to "my village" - even though I still have very little Mandarin (I'm lazy!) - and the people that helped to organise my visit and generally kept an eye on me were now as much a family as whatever remained back home in Tasmania.

This whole area was once the Asian Games Village (1992) so it's role in hosting the 2008 Olympic Games was well rehearsed. To the left of this glare is a huge bank of floodlights that astonished me on my first night in China. No power shortage here! The full moon that marks the Moon Festival, moon cakes and a public holiday. It is a bit like Christmas but with deeper cultural significance.
Quiet now but at night, with the window open, all the laughter, arguments and street noises drift up to my room. This is a village inside a major city. A giant tapestry hanging over the hotel desk is one of many examples of quality Tibetan art displayed throughout the hotel. The bathroom/toilet of my room had a large shower but not a bath - so I couldn't get into trouble washing my clothes like I did in 2005.
Here's the revamped hotel foyer for 2009. I imagine it will be considerably more crowded next visit. Another view of the foyer. I was also shown the extended and remodelled medicinal bathing rooms. They were in use so no photos. This are is to be either a cafe or a restaurant (I wasn't clear). The hotel was filled with the sounds of building every day until evening.
Angel (Liao yunrun) whom I met in this hotel in 2002. This time she found me a photographic model and was an excellent guide on the visit Xi'an. To be honest, both Beijing and Shanghai can have clear, blue-sky days for days on end. Other cities are not so lucky. The China Tibetology Research Center dominates Anhuili and its influence on research extends world wide. My best friend in China works here.
 
This whole area was the Asian Games Village (1992) so it seemed appropriate for it to house the 2008 Olympics. Chinese girls seem to get more beautiful each year, or maybe I just get older, but they are certainly more confident and independent. There are no old cars in China, and because the new ones are status symbols for China's nouveau-riche, a dirty one is rare.
 
Public nudity is still a big issue in China, so to use the word to advertise perfume was daring - this year I photographed my 1st nude model in China. Public information notices abound on community notice boards. Although there is also public television it is not a total monopoly. Anhuili is a middleclass area and this is the local primary school with well dressed children. I was wary of getting too close.
 
It seems all medium-sized businesses have these little morale-boosting meetings in the morning before opening for business. Pets are important. This bird in its eleborate cage takes the air in a carpark close to where its owner works. She was pleased when I took this. Hairdressers and an estate agent on his electric scooter. Include restaurants and you have the three major occupations on this street.
This red qipao is owned by the restaurant and a poor fit, but the girl inside it must try to look inviting as she and colleauges help clients to park. As always, Chinese babies seem plentiful and adorable. Their parents are proud for you to photograph them. Persuading the reluctant mite to pose for the Bignose is no small feat... but the neighbours seem to enjoy it.
A Chinese couple are having sex when one of their cell phones rings. Do they (a) stop to answer or (b) keep going and answer it? (it might be their boss). Harmony Day - the Chinese nation consists of 56 ethnic groups... and 98% are Han Chinese without colourful costumes. A restaurant employee on the pavement chopping fresh-dried peppers for the restaurant behind him.
Vegetable carts like this with their tiny horses still bring produce into Beijing every morning. Some set up temporary stalls like this. The hairdressers may be having a morning staff meeting but the real estate agent is off on his electric scooter in the bike lane for more business. Brandnames are worldwide regardless of the original language. It is the same "Fedex" you would call in the US - or Australia.
Parking in Anhuili; Chinese streets are designed for bycycles - not cars, so there is no dedicated off-street parking (yet). This is a public space - people sold things until the police cleared them away. Now it's a semi-official carpark for a city of drivers who are bad at parking. English words in public places relax the US/European visitor with their familiarity and give the locals a feeling of sophistication before the world.
Dumpster diving. Even in a fairly wealthy area there is still real poverty in cities and recycling is a cottage industry. One of the most established take-away areas in Anhuili - always busy until late evening with enormous variety. Using Beijing's subway (see diagram over the doorway) for the second part of our journey to the 1000-year Tanzhe Temple outside Beijing.
This street has a row of incredibly cool restaurants. This is a Taiwanese restaurant - check the waitress' haircut, which is part of her uniform. In side with He Juan at a restaurant so classy ALL the waitresses must have short hair. The food is great and they serve white tea with sugar This one is Italian. The Chinese flag celebrates the 60th Anniversary of the People's Republic and many more were visible everywhere.
The Korean national costume that tends to make the wearer look pregnant but also tends to flutter like a big flower. Local belles assemble at Huizhong Lu corner where I was honked at by an impatient black Mercedes. I was waiting for the lights to change. A scene outside the tube station on our way to Tunzhe Bhudhist Temple. The extra security was because of the 60th anniversary celebrations.
Japanese department store Ito Yokado, where my fairy godmother took me to buy some excellent new shiirts and a woolen pullover. Autumn in Ito Yokado. On asking for shirts at the Northern Star department store, four teenage assistants said they had nothing that big. On my last day in Beijing, Yao Lei and the staff of Coffee Language presented me with this gift - an ancient instrument - the xun (8.5 cm high).
The Tibetan-themed decor is distinctly up-market - as are the medicinal bathrooms. Yonder is the door to my 8th floor room . Newly re-opened, the hotel was almost empty. Tibetan arts and culture are celebrated in the foyer of the hotel. As night falls the Northern Star tower gives a modest moving light show until midnight.
Luan uses my Chinese-English dictionary to see what it was I had had asked for.. The proofreader in me prefers "nothing is impossible" but this is much more striking I think. There are many examples of families with more than one child. Reasons vary but mostly they paid for the privilege. Swine flu seemed to have declined as an issue but coloured hair is spreading.
I have never felt more under surveilance in China than in Australia or the US. All Chinese have cellphones, some are more attached than others i.e. women more than men. At last this long-awaited museum of Tibetan Art is soon to open next to my hotel. Mine host and friend in Coffee Language, Yao Lei, where I ate simply every day while in Beijing.

 

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