Perhaps unsurprisingly, "Old Beijing" is a very popular style of restaurant ... in Beijing. I first noticed this one in 2002 when instead of the usual tall, pretty girl in the red qipoa, the doorman was a rather embarrassed-looking lad in Qing dynasty costume. I first ate there with Meixin in 2005 because they specialise in noodles which she loves (a favourite dish for Northerners I understand).

To enter you must pass the gentleman with the chef's hat and his array of tempting dishes. If you see anything you like you tell the waiter who collects you from the entrance and takes you to a table while announcing your arrival at the top of his voice and all his colleagues respond at similar volume.

In fact the astonishing noise level is part of the boyzy atmosphere. In 2006 the waiters didn't yell so loud and the Peking Opera on the video was low enough to talk over. When the waiter condescends to take your order (which seems to be very much beneath his dignity) and conveys it to the kitchen, he returns to make as much noise as he possibly can with the crockery - shuffling the plates like cards and then tossing them onto the table. It must cost this establishment a fortune in breakages.

The food is good. Meixin got her noodles - and chicken for me (she had lots of fun tormenting me with the chicken heads and feet). Chinese think Western food prejudices are hilarious.

(Click on images to enlarge)